Grant Grill

Article first published as Restaurant Review (San Diego): The Grant Grill on Blogcritics.

After our first day at a conference in San Diego we decided to go out for a special dinner at the Grant Grill at the US Grant Hotel. First off the hotel, which has been around since 1910, is beautiful. We could have spent a lot of time just taking in the history of the hotel but this isn't hotelventures so let's get right to the Grant Grill. This restaurant was on the Best Thing I Ever Drank so the reason why we were there was the Smashing Pumpkin martini but as you will soon see, the meal itself great.

The Grant Grill had the feel of a fancy club where CEOs meet to make serious decisions and actually for a long time it was a men's club during certain times of the week. Lots of expensive wood and art and fancy plates on which they serve single palette cleansers so you are prepared for your meal. The great thing is that this all worked really well with the ambiance and feel and definitely the food served. One thing that I struggled with were the seats. For some reason at our table the bench seats were extremely close to the table itself and since they were leather and cushy I felt like I was being pushed into the table. An odd feeling especially when you are settling in for a extended meal.

So what did I order? I obviously ordered the Smashing Pumpkin martini, which is seasonally available in the fall. Next, after perusing the menu I ordered the Dungeness crab risotto for an appetizer and the Niman ranch pork cheeks for my entree. For those of you who do not know, Niman ranch is an awesome high end ranch where you can get great meats and yes pork cheeks are the cheeks of a pig. After ordering our waiter informed us that the fresh baked focaccia bread would be out of the oven in a few minutes. That got me really excited but I was still blown away by the bread we received.

A few minutes later my martini came out. The Smashing Pumpkin martini is made up of pumpkin and star anise infused 10 cane run, Grand Marnier, allspice, saffron syrup, cardamom bitters, and some frech meyer lemon. Yes, that is a lot of ingredients and I generally struggle with sweet martinis but this one was surpisingly tasty. The rim was lined with cinnamon and sugar which blended very well with the pumpkin rum. The Grand Marnier and saffron added some boldness to the drink while the allspice and cardamom added some punch. The Meyer lemon, being a little sweet also melded well into the drink. One thing that stood out was this was definitely not meant to be a smooth drink, with all the ingredients the liquid became very cloudy and at times I felt like I needed to chew. This made the drink a little much and not one that I could drink repeatedly in one night. I think that if they strained it, the drink would be smoother and a little less intense. I liked it but definitely ordered a glass of wine for my entree.

Just look at how crispy the top is!

Next, to our delight, the fresh focaccia bread arrived. Now this wasn't just a big loaf cut up and served, not at the Grant Grill. Each table gets its own mini loaf baked just for the privileged few who sit there. The bread came out piping hot, and ready to be cut and served like a pizza. It also came with special sea salt, cracked pepper, and butter on the side ready to be mixed and used to enhance the flavor (Not that it was needed). Honestly they could have just given me some marinara sauce, my own platter and I would not have needed anything else that night, the bread was just that good. But, alas I had to suffer through two more courses and dessert.

 After eating two pieces of this bread, the appetizers arrived. My Dungeness crab risotto was delicious. One thing I want to point out again is that the plates were all very unique and worked perfectly with the presentation of each and every dish. This was a risotto like no other I have ever had before. The rice was cooked perfectly and mixed beautifully with the capers and crab. Each bite was smooth and only the tiniest bit chewy. The crab added a level of decadence that allowed you to close your eyes and enjoy each bite, while the snap peas added a bit of green that helped you feel like this was at all healthy. The addition of toasted pine nuts was brilliant. Pine nuts just add something intangible to certain dishes; I think it's the woodsy taste and smell that comes along with the toasting. And just when you think that this was enough, they went ahead and shaved fresh Parmesan over the top and proved you wrong. Without the salty flavor the cheese brought to the dish, something would have indeed been missing. That little bit pulled the whole dish together and turned it into one of the best risottos I have ever tasted.

So far the Grant Grill had gone three for three without many critiques, and the next dish was no slouch either. My pork cheeks arrived on top of Swiss chard, accompanied by what they call rooftop tomato jam, cipollini onions and Asian pears (Which I actually thought were potatoes which would have made no sense in this dish). Ok so I have to be honest, I really have nothing bad to say about this dish aside from the fact that I would not have complained if I got received more cheeks on the plate but when do you not want more cheeks?

This dish just worked, plain and simple, everything that was on the plate needed to be there and I would not have added anything else. I didn't even think to add pepper which I usually add to everything (I added it to the risotto). Each bite was savored and then missed when it was gone. Some times I would try the pork cheek alone and other times I would mix it with one, two, or all of the other ingredients. Each forkful was different and caused a unique flavor profile which is always fun for me. It's like I have many different entrees all in one dish. Easy to try, but really hard to pull off. This was the first time I had ever eaten pork cheeks and now I am sad that I hadn't been eating them all my life. They were cooked down to the point where the meat melted in your mouth and just truly embodied the flavor of pork. This cut now ranks right under bacon for me, and actually not that expensive to purchase at the butcher. If you eat pork and go to this restaurant you would be remiss if you did not order this dish.

It would not be a complete meal without a little dessert (Though I could have ordered another entree if it would have been an approved move). I ordered the semolina cake with a raspberry and blueberry compote and vanilla ice cream. I really do not remember much about this desert, I think my reaction was that it was fine but not as significant as the rest of the meal. This may be my bias against cakes but I don't think it was bad, just not amazing. Of the whole dessert, I think the compote was the best. Mixing the fruit into the ice cream and cake was the way to go and they elevated the dish to something better than I would have expected. If I eat here again I would probably try something else but I don't think you would be disappointed if you decided to try the semolina cake

The Grant Grill at the US Grant Hotel was a wonderful experience and is run by people who obviously know what they are doing. A few critiques but all in all a delectable dinner and well worth the cost. Just as a heads up, this place is not cheap but you can get coupons from restaurant.com to help lower the bill a bit. Also, if you really want to get crazy, you can order their ever changing seasonal tasting menu and perhaps do a wine pairing to go along with it. Next time you are in San Diego and looking for a fancy dinner check out the Grant Grill or just stop in at their lounge for some inventive and tasty cocktails.

Overall Review: 9/10

Take a look at what the Grant Grill is serving today by clicking here

Broken Yolk Cafe

Article first published as Restaurant Review (San Diego): Broken Yolk Cafe on Blogcritics.

While in San Diego for the NASPA Regional Conference, Virginia and I stopped by the Broken Yolk Cafe for some brunch. This was a place on Man vs Food and has a massive egg challenge, not something I was going to try two hours before winning an award but maybe next time. Instead I came in to try some Mexican breakfast food since it is a staple in San Diego. From the outside the Broken Yolk looked like a standard diner and sort of small but wow was I wrong. It was actually really modern looking with some nice flat screen televisions and it went back far enough to seat a decent number of people. I ordered a coffee and some fresh squeezed grapefruit juice (hoping that it was a decent amount of juice for cost) and perused the menu. After a few reads I was torn between a few options so in regular fashion I asked my server for his breakfast recommendations. He rattled off a few options but told me that by far his favorite was the chilaquiles. I went with his recommendation and ordered them with the red sauce (I am not really a fan of green sauce, I don't know why but I am slowly realizing that I have a distaste for anything "chile verde").

The juice and coffee came out and I was instantly pleased.Why you ask? Because the grapefruit juice was actually served in an adult sized glass. It is really annoying to spend 4-6 dollars on juice and get the same or less in actually ounces. Here I got probably twelve ounces of juice for 5 bucks which is enough to get me through the whole meal. Other breakfast places can take notes from this, please save your child size glasses for children and serve me enough juice for more than one gulp!

After a short wait my chilaquiles arrived in all their glory. So what are chilaquiles? Well, you start with crispy fried quartered tortillas and top them with sauce (As previously discussed, I chose red). Next you cover them with melted cheese and sour cream. For breakfast eggs can be added and I opted for my over medium fried and it all goes on a plate next to some refried beans. How can you go wrong with that! Well, I imagine you can but this place definitely did not.

Everything about this dish made me happy. The tortillas were crispy on the outside of the plate but soaked in sauce on the inside. The cheese was melted perfectly and the red sauce was tangy and spicy. I great wake up call after the early morning and the two hour drive in traffic, though the constant refiling of my rarely consumed coffee by out attentive waiter probably influenced this comment a bit. And oh the eggs. For those of you who have read other posts I am very critical of my eggs, probably more so than my steak and burgers. Not sure why but it is what it is. When I say over medium it means that the yolk should still run but it should be viscous like molasses and these eggs were just that. When I cut it the yolk coated the knife and fork and did the same for the tortillas. They added the unctuousness the dish sorely needed as eggs are supposed to do. Mixed into the tortilla side of the plate they made this dish something I would come back to again and again.

While the beans were pretty much a throwaway, I was really happy with this recommendation and told the waiter just that. It is always nice to go to a restaurant where the wait staff take pride in the food and can really guide you towards good choices. I am always a little nervous when I go to a MvF place and try something he didn't eat but the Broken Yolk Cafe did not disappoint. Next time you are in San Diego check it out they serve tons of omelets as well and don't forget, adult sized fruit juices!

Overall Review: 7/10

Check out the Broken Yolk Cafe here (Apparently you can open a franchise if you have some money)

Hob Nob Hill

After a conference in San Diego I decided to stop by a list place in before driving north for the camp Pendleton Mud Run. Since it was 4 o'clock and my first choice was closed I decided to check out a Triple D place. Hob Nob Hill was only 15 minutes away so I drove over for an early dinner. Upon my arrival I noticed two things. First, the it looked like I transported back in time to the 60s or 70s. Honestly, it was dark and dingy, not the most welcoming of places. Second, I was the youngest person in the restaurant by at least 40 years. This may be exactly why the decorations harkened back to their patrons younger days but also could be because I got there at 4pm.

I was quickly seated and just loved my paper napkin table setting. The waitress attended to me quickly, but she was oddly cold. I wonder what I did to make her not like me, but it may have been that she hated her life for working at this place. Just a thought. Guy Fieri ordered the lamb shank so I did the same. It came with bread, applesauce, mashed potatoes, and I threw in a cup of clam chowder.

So let’s talk food, the bread came first and it was a raisin wheat bread. It arrived warm which was nice and had a sweet flavor and a doughy texture. So far so good, I ate the whole mini loaf pretty quickly. After that came the clam chowder. The chowder had some decent flavor. It was a tad bit thin; I am used to a thicker chowder and for that matter, one with a lot more clams. It is always disappointing when there are twice as many potatoes than clams but it still tasted pretty good. The sad thing is that this was the best I was going to get today.

When the lamb shank and side dishes arrived I was immediately let down. The shank was grey and looked way overcooked and the gravy seemed like it was goopy and out of a mix. The mint jelly was without a doubt store bought and tasted awful. At first bite into the shank I realized that I was in for a disappointing entree. The shank tasted just like it looked, overcooked and flavorless. The gravy definitely added flavor but all in all the entree was flat and boring. The sides we even worse. The applesauce was heated up, probably in a microwave and the mashed potatoes had the gritty taste of the instant variety. Really sad and completely flavorless. I never put salt on my food as a way to attempt to manage sodium intake but I wanted to tear the cap off the salt shaker and dumb it in my food. Honestly, this food was unreasonable bland but it may be a reaction to the clientele.

As I stated before, Guy recommended the lamb shank so I had to try it and wow, that was pathetic. I am really starting to question this guy's palate. In summary, Hob Nob Hill was a place lost to modern times which wouldn't be bad if the food transported you back to that time as well. The problem is that the food had no chance in doing that, it just made me very sad to have chosen it as the only place I would try in my trip to San Diego. I would not recommend that you waste your time or money at this place; there are a hundred better options in the area.

Overall Rating: 3/10